by Andrew Coppolino | September 2024
The pages of the calendar flip too quickly, but the consolation is that autumn beckons with a fresh harvest of local ingredients and crafted flavours, from duck to Brussels sprouts to seasonal beer.
Here are a few suggestions for fall feasting.
Block Three Brewing Company, St. Jacobs
On the brewing scene, there are beers to look forward to this fall as German-style and German-tradition beers make their return – and, of course, in step with the keg tapping of the the ever popular Waterloo Region festival, Oktoberfest.
As per fall, Block Three sees the return of their popular “Blocktoberfest,” a 5.5% ABV German-style amber lager, according to brewer Kevin Freer.
“We brew it every year for our anniversary party, also called Blocktoberfest, that runs this year on September 27-28,” Freer says. “It’s a fairly traditional, medium-bodied Marzen lager with a very light potpourri hop aroma and strong toasted bread-crusts malt flavours. It’s not a commonly made style, and I have good memories of the season associated with it. Once the leaves start changing colours and the nights get colder, I start thinking about that beer. It’s like a Pavlovian response,” Freer says.
Located along the main street of St. Jacobs, the brewery is celebrating 11 years. Check their website and social for more anniversary details as the time approaches. Otherwise, look to Block Three for their regular rotating taps of IPAs, fruited sours and lagers for this fall.
TWB: Together We’re Bitter Cooperative Brewing, Kitchener
No offence intended, but TWB notes that they will stay away from any “pumpkin spice” flavours, according to brewer/worker-owner Pete Baginski.
“However, we will have our traditional German Harvest Lager coming this September,” he says. “It’s called ‘The Antidote.’ Reddish amber in colour, it’s a little bit sweeter than a German pils.”
Baginski and TWB are also producing their annual wet hop IPA called “Bitter Harvest” that’s expected to be about 6.8% ABV. “It will have some more subtle floral and fruit notes from the wet hop while maintaining old-school hop characteristics,” he adds.
The hops come from Tavistock Hop Company, about 30 minutes from the brewery.
Loloan Lobby Bar and Bhima’s Warung, Waterloo
Loloan and Bhima’s: a dynamic duo of popular Waterloo restaurants, both specializing in southeast Asian flavours.
Loloan continues to impress – and it’s also continuing something of an autumn tradition with an encore presentation of the Duck Massman dish that premiered last fall.
Chef Sean Rae Pambid nestles Philippine soy-braised shredded duck in a pandan “orb” to accompany a roasted Muscovy duck breast seasoned with Massaman curry and served with crushed peanuts and black sticky rice along with a red curry-dressed apple and pear salad, the fall fruit taking the star turn.
“Its origins are from last fall,” says Pambid, “but the duck Massaman is probably our most popular main course.”
At sister restaurant, the iconic Bhima’s Warung, owner-chef Paul Boehmer says fall makes the kitchen “think of mushrooms, apples, squash and game birds” to name only a few delicious ingredients.
“This fall we will feature plates like Nagano pork cured in aromatic spices with peanut-apple glaze and taro-pumpkin gnocchi or pheasant chanterelle ‘dom ka,’” Boehmer says.
Chef Scott Yates, Waterloo Region
Yates offers intimate private caterings for small groups, cooking classes, corporate events and wine tours on his “gastronomy bus” in and around southwestern Ontario. Drawing from a host of local suppliers, Yates says among his favourites are farmers’ markets. That’s no surprise.
“I do love the St. Jacob’s Market in the fall. When it comes to fresh, local produce and meats, it’s my favourite time of the year.”
The amazing Brussels sprout, cousin to broccoli and cabbage, catches his eye, he says. “One of the things I always look for are those sprouts, and I always buy them still attached to their stalks. I slow roast them on the barbecue with some of my spice mix and olive oil to achieve a little bit of char. Then part of the fun is carving the sprouts off the stalk.”
There’s little waste, however; Yates then slices up the stalk, blanches it and freezes it for a stir fry. “Or a Brussels sprouts hash with leeks and pork jowl from Stemmler’s Meats in Heidelberg,” says Yates.
Terroir Artisan Baking, Cambridge
Terroir creates a range of terrific baked goods – sourdough to Viennoiserie – by Dan Angus of world-class Langdon Hall Country House Hotel & Spa in Cambridge. You can find Angus’s creations at the St. Jacobs Farmers’ Market (check their website for details), the retail counter on Franklin Boulevard during winter and at local businesses like Flight Coffee in Cambridge and Lucero Canteen in downtown Kitchener.
As the late-summer and fall harvests ramp up, Angus is bookending his current baking, in a manner of speaking.
“While I’m still working with summer ingredients, but I did get my hands on an early crop of apples. I’m stewing those down with last season’s maple syrup for a pastry,” he says.
Langdon Hall Country House Hotel & Spa, Cambridge
Speaking of the country’s No. 5-rated restaurant for 2024 on Canada’s 100 Best, flip through Langdon Hall: A Cookbook and you will find a smorgasbord of flavours, divided into the seasons, created by chef Jason Bangerter. “First Frost” shares what inspires Bangerter about fall: squash soup, sweet corn, barbecued cauliflower, seafood chowder and autumn fruits, to name a few.
“Each new season sparks creativity and excitement and leads where the menus develop,” says Bangerter. “As the garden comes to an end, late harvest provides sweet, delicious roots and hearty leaves.”
Sharing his love of soups, he says squash is a favourite. “I love the combination of earthy, sweet squash puréed into a smooth velvety texture and seasoned lightly with fall spices. It pairs wonderfully with orchard fruit like apple and pear along with roasted chestnuts. I usually add a splash of luxury by adding ingredients like butter-poached lobster, roasted sweetbreads, caviar, or just simply keep it vegetarian.”
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Writer Andrew Coppolino was the food columnist for CBC-KW Radio (2013-2024) and Metroland newspapers. The author of Farm to Table (Swan Parade Press) and co-author of Cooking with Shakespeare (Greenwood Press), he was the 2022 Joseph Hoare Gastronomic Writer-in-Residence at the Stratford Chefs School. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @andrewcoppolino.