Chef’s Blog: A Smash Burger takeover!

by Nick Benninger | October 2024

Smash burgers have become the star of the burger world, effortlessly replacing the seemingly more traditional charbroiled burgers we grew up with. But why? The answer becomes clear with the first bite. Smash burgers have a primal appeal, connecting with food lovers on a deep, almost instinctual level. They resemble something Jughead would devour by the dozen, and their simplicity is part of what makes them irresistible. Or maybe that’s just me.

Recently, I visited Church Hill Farm, near Punkeydoodles Corners in Wilmot Township. It didn’t take me long to realize what was going to be on the dinner menu: smash burgers!

A Visit to Church Hill Farm

Much like the rise of smash burgers, the story of Church Hill Farm and the Lass family runs deep. Farming has been a family staple for hundreds of years, spanning two continents. Their commitment to the land, community, and tradition is unmatched. Owen Lass, who recently took over operations from his father, Max, embodies this heritage. Owen’s methods are old-school, from growing fodder for his flock to pressing cider from heirloom apples. The authenticity of his approach is palpable in every bite of the farm’s products. And his expertise in farming and butchering is his superpower.

One of my core values is to be genuine, and working with Owen, Max, and the entire Lass family feels like a masterclass in authenticity. They set the benchmark for living in harmony with the land and the animals they care for, all while producing exceptional food. As a chef, an advocate for local ingredients, and, most importantly, a storyteller, working alongside this family has enriched my own experience in ways I hadn’t anticipated.

The hands-on approach at Church Hill Farm guarantees a level of control over quality that you can taste. Their lamb is distinctly rich and flavorful, not too mild like some modern lamb, but not overpowering either. It’s the perfect balance. When I got my hands on their ground lamb, I immediately thought of smash burgers.

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This Hulk Smashes!

Having cooked smash burgers for a while now, I know that the fat-to-lean meat ratio is critical. The standard ratio is 80/20, but I like to push it a little further and aim for a 77/23 split. That slight increase in fat gives the burger a juicier, more flavorful edge—trust me, it makes a difference.

The secret to any great smash burger is keeping things simple. Resist the temptation to overload on toppings. Stick to one or two, three if you’re feeling adventurous, and if you’re adding cheese, it should almost always be Kraft Singles—because, yes, it just hits right! A sauce-based topping paired with something fresh, like chopped raw onions, is ideal. Simplicity is key because it allows the quality of the meat to shine.

For this recipe, I decided to let Church Hill Farm’s ground lamb take center stage, skipping the cheese altogether. I made two versions of lamb smash burgers. The first was a butter burger, my take of a Wisconsin classic. It features a heaping tablespoon of lemon-garlic butter slathered onto both sides of the bun, with a single smash patty. The second burger was inspired by Michigan-style smash burgers, but with a twist: instead of olives, I used locally foraged ramps that I pickled myself. I folded the pickled ramps into mayonnaise to create a simple yet vibrant sauce. Both burgers were served on soft, toasted buns, and the results were fantastic.

At the heart of this meal is a nod to tradition. It’s a reminder that food, when kept simple and true to its origins, is at its best. With local farms like Church Hill leading the way, Waterloo Region is smashing it in more ways than one.

Church Hill Farm Lamb Smash Burger Recipe

This simple recipe will not only blow the doors off of anyone lucky enough to eat at your table, it will highlight the exceptional lamb doing justice to all the work put into it! It’s not lost how easy it is to execute too, this recipe is a keeper and can easily be tweaked so have fun with it and become a smash burger specialist!

Ingredients

Ground lamb
Soft brioche style buns
Butter
Lemon
Garlic
Mayonnaise
Pickled Ramps
Salt and pepper

Method:

The Pre-Shift *

* Ok, so some pre-shift talk here! Once we get cooking things will happen fast and furious (yes, you never turn your back on family….er the flat top!) Also, you eat smash burgers like sushi, when they are ready. Don’t fuss about getting them all cooked and then sitting down, just cook, serve, cook, serve, cook scarf one down, cook, serve and repeat until everyone is fed and all the burgers are gone. So with that said, when it comes to prep, get every detail sorted before you fire up the flat top.

Now, on the topic of flat tops, not everybody has a blackstone griddle, and neither do I. Don’t worry, with a large cast iron pan and some tools you can get the job done for a small crowd. What you will need is one large cast iron pan, one heavy duty offset spatula (or as the home cook calls them hamburger flipper), and then a second tool you can apply some weight to. I used two heavy duty offset spatulas, until my kids got me a specific tool for smash burgers that looks like a “dad bod Captain America shield” but again, you can make due without. It also helps to have a handful of “patty paper” or squares of parchment paper handy – they help keep things slick.

Ok, now the process The recipe for the sauces is below that, but remember – read it fully and prep it completely before proceeding!

Sauces

Butter
Simply take softened butter and mix in smashed garlic and a wee bit of lemon juice, a healthy pinch of salt and that’s it. Each burger should get around 1.5 tablespoons of butter, I know that sounds ridiculous, but this is an indulgent treat and to half measure it would be pointless, live in this moment.

Mayo Sauce
I don’t suspect you will have pickled ramps aka wild leaks, so if that’s the case just use some nice manzanilla olives, the kind with the pimento. Mince some of the olives, add them to the mayonnaise, with a dash of the brine and that’s it,

How To Smash

Take your ground lamb and ball it up into as many 3oz patties as it takes to use up all your ground, set aside at room temp for up to 30 mins

Set your cast iron pan to 9/10 or your Blackstone to 11/10

Toast all your buns with a little smear of butter ahead of time, place them aside in waiting like good little soldiers

One by one, sear your patties. If your cast iron pan is big enough, do as many as you can fit at a time, don’t crowd it, you will lose heat, steam the scene and make a soggy mess.

Once you have added a ball, place the parchment paper square on top, then using the offset spatula and the secondary implement, smash, smash to the point of regret, you can not smash too much, if you think you have the skills, smear the edges trying to feather it out creating lacey edges.

Now season with ample salt and pepper, allow it hard sear on one side, and using your offset spatula, pressing into the pan with significant torque, scrape the patties free and flip

Once flipped they will finish in seconds, if you were adding cheese this is when you’d do it, but you aren’t, so don’t

Now build a burger, smear the sauce, serve and get back to it until the day is done and when it’s your time to scarf, quietly say “lord that’s good” and get back to it!

*****

Chef Nick Benninger discovered his culinary calling at the age of 16. After attending George Brown College, Nick completed his apprenticeship working at kitchens throughout Ontario and finally settled down in his hometown of Kitchener-Waterloo.
He is as passionate about where his food comes from as how it’s prepared. He has been a staunch advocate for sourcing local ingredients and showcasing the diversity of the great produce that’s so abundant in Waterloo Region.
Nick shares his culinary diversity and affable charm on the small screen as the host of FARM TO FORK.